3.30.2017

Raven Guard Rhino, Progress Report Two

Solid progress on my Raven Guard Rhino. I've got the gunner, hatches, ad doors mostly done, the dozer half done, ad a base coat on the main chassis.




 
Pretty boring stuff. It'll get some decals, maybe some freehand lettering, and I have to bust out the airbrush to paint a squad symbol on the top hatch. Nothing fancy, just a masked off section for a tactical arrow.
I'd pledged this thing for a motivational challenge in the Raven Guard subforum at the Bolter and Chainsword. It might help my crappy Tactical Squad on the table.
After this is done, I have to paint like mad to complete four Assault Marines before the 8th, when I'm attending an invitational event. I'm working down the long road of fielding a Bladewing Assault Brotherhood. It'll be 20 Assault Marines (I have six done), 5 Vanguard (completely different loadout to my current five), and a Chaplain.

3.27.2017

Blood Bowl Orcs: Three Down!

The first three models in my Blood Bowl team are finally complete. A thrower, blocker, and lineman.







To be honest, I lost my enthusiasm for the models and sort of phoned it in on the paint job near the end. They're better than primer or bare plastic though, so I'll take it.
I added white stripes for the player numbers, as plain white numbers didn't look right. The Orc-style font I tried ends up looking a little off, but good enough to mark them out on the board.
My base ring colors are sloppy. I got tired of chasing colors back and forth with the black. Again, good enough for the board.
You might notice that the lineman is missing a finger on his left hand. I dropped these models on the floor more than once, and the lineman suffered an amputation, while all three lost the tips of spikes here and there. Oops.
The bases are just small rocks and sand glued down, painted brown, and some pale green flock added. I got it years ago in a pack from Secret Weapon, and can't for the life of me find the rest of the bag, I just have a tiny bit left in a sandwich bag. I may have lost the rest I the house move. I chose it over the bright green stuff because I figure plants on an Orc pitch would be in less than ideal health.

Now that these are done, I'm working on some Raven Guard models (a Rhino ad a few more Assault Marines) before I try my hand at some Harlequins. I'll randomly select three more Orcs to paint ad add them into the queue.

2.13.2017

Raven Guard Rhino, Progress Report One

The next model I'm adding to my Raven Guard army is a Rhino. I discovered that one of the massive weaknesses of my current list is protection and mobility for my Tactical Squad and/or Sternguard Squad. So, a Rhino was in order. It doesn't hurt that it was also a model I had in my piles of unbuilt stuff that I want to get painted this year.



I spent a good while carefully assembling the model, and then magnetizing the doors and dozer blade. The dozer is from an Astra Militarum tank, either a Chimera or a Russ if I remember right. I prefer these to the silly spike rams that come with Marine tanks. I sank three 1/8" magnets into the mounting bar and matched them with equally sized magnets sunk into the underside of the Rhino body. I used quarter inch magnets for the doors, which allows this model to be a Predator in the future by attaching magnets to the inside of the sponsons.
The gunner also got some extra attention. I used old, metal arms on him and attached hands from the current Devastator Squad. I'm trying to make the gunners/crew of my Raven Guard tanks look a little more interesting than just the two-hands-on-gun pose. Plus, I'm saving all those gun arms for my magnetized Landspeeder gunners.
 
It will be a little while before this sucker gets primed, as the current string of blizzards here are impeding my ability to prime models. It's just too cold in the garage for spraying, and I've fallen out of love with my old brush-on primer method.
 
Despite the fact that I haven't been painting much, I have been drafting up a bunch of Raven Guard army lists. I'm trying to find a list that is both effective and fun to play. To that end, I came up with the following 1750 list:
 
Bladewing Assault Brotherhood (gives some fun deployment and redeployment options)
  • Chaplain with jump pack
  • 10-man Assault Squad with jump packs, two flamers, and a lightning claw sergeant
  • 10-man Assault Squad with jump packs, two flamers, and a lightning claw sergeant
  • 5-man Vanguard Veteran Squad with jump packs and a mix of power weapons and shields
Speartip Strike (gives some interesting rules for "suppressing and harassing" enemy units, plus a ton of speeders)
  • Three separate squadrons of two Landspeeders, each with a multimelta and Typhoon missiles
  • Two separate squads of three naked Scout Bikes
Ravenhawk Assault Group (deepstriking Stormraven with some Sternguard and a Dreadnought, all of which reroll to wound against a selected enemy unit for the game)
  • Stormraven with lascannon, multimelta, and a searchlight
  • Dreadnought with a multimelta and powerfist
  • 5-man Sternguard Squad with combiplasmas
Altogether, twenty-six jump infantry, six bikes, five infantry, a walker, a flyer, and six Landspeeders. Fast, flexible, and with lots of options. The only part I'm not really sold on is the Ravenhawk formation. It's intended to pick a hard unit or monster and nuke it on arrival. But I'm not really sure about keeping up to 461 points in mandatory reserves. I've had reserve rolls seriously hamper my armies of late. I'd love to finally field a Stormraven, but am not sure this is the right formation for me. I'm thinking maybe I'll switch to a Storm Wing (two Stormtalons and a Stormraven, all arrive with a single roll, Raven gets Strafing Run) or a Raptor Wing (two Stormtalons and a unit of Landspeeders, speeders spot enemy units for the flyers to get rerolls to wound or Armor Penetration, flyers automatically arrive Turn Two). The Storm Wing suffers the same heavy points investment in Reserve, but has some stronger shooting. I can't decide, but that's ok. I am going to start with the Brotherhood and work downwards.
 
Well, I'm off to wire some junction boxes. Wish me luck and non-electrocution!
 
 

2.10.2017

Blood Bowl Orcs, Progress Report Two

It's time for an update. Things have been busy since Christmas what with vacations, holdays, birthdays, snow days, and a big DIY renovation project on my house. Tearing down old plaster walls and putting in new electrical lines and some plumbing. Not a ton of time for painting of late.

I've been working on these three Orcs for what feels like an eternity now. I'm oh-so-close to being done with them. Here's what they look like at the moment. The images are washed out, as is usual for me and my lazy photography.



 
They all need eyes, teeth, and nails painted and some touchups done on the pink armor where I slipped while painting spikes or rivets. You might notice that on the Black Orc, I stopped painting the spikes and rivets in silver. I decided I just hated the look. For the rest of the team, I'm just painting armor spikes that don't have a defined separation from the plate as well as rivets in the pink armor color, and just highlighting them.
I'm also going to be adding some white stripes to various armor plates and then painting the numbers over that in pink. I think I'm going to go with red for the ball, to look like squig hide.
 
I've played a total of three league games with my team now, accumulating a win, a loss, and a coin toss win (we were tied after the second half and didn't want to fudge through sudden death). I'm thoroughly enjoying the game of Blood Bowl, and really like leveling up players in the league. However, I'm sort of bored waiting for new Orc team models to be released. I'd like to own a Troll and some Goblins, but have no idea which models to use. I'd like to do some hand and head swaps on the duplicated sculpts on the team, but am not sure which models from the Sigmar line would match. I'm thinking the various Ironjawz for Orcs, but am not sure on scale. Anyone know how the Ironjawz match up to these Orcs?
I'm at a total loss when it comes to Goblins, but I think I might try to land one of the old Battle of Skull Pass Troll models for my team.
 
Those plans are a ways off, as I'm finding myself a little bored with painting these guys. My attention span for non-Marine models is historically awful. I think I'll hop back over to a Raven Guard Rhino next, then some Harlequins, more RG Assault Marines, and then the next batch of three Orc Blood Bowlers.

1.10.2017

Blood Bowl Orcs, Progress Report One

There's been some good progress made on my first three Blood Bowl Orcs. I painted the skin with Reaper colors, with a wash of old GW Thrakka Green in the process. I'm not sure if I like the result or not. It's hard to tell until the model is complete. The nice thing with Orcs is that I can have different green recipes for different models and it won't be a problem.

After the skin, I applied Screamer Pink to the armor plates:
blood bowl orc thrower

blood bowl orc blocker

blood bowl orc lineman
 
Then I covered the armor with Pink Horror. At first I tried leaving some Screamer Pink showing in the recesses like I used to do with my Ultramarines, but it looked like crap on such uneven plates. So, I covered over the whole basecoat and will have to go back and use a shading wash.
blood bowl orc lineman

blood bowl orc thrower

blood bowl orc blocker
 
I am not sure what would be a good wash for pink. My first thought was a red, but right now I only own purple (old GW Leviathan Purple). I think I'll thin that out with some medium and see how it pans out. After that, I'll touch up with Pink Horror. Then I have to decide if I should edge highlight or drybrush the final layer of Emperor's Children. The Warhammer TV method is to drybrush the final color, though they used red and not pink. I've never really drybrushed armor before, and am not sure if I'll like it. I think if I drybrush, I'll want to add some sponged armor chipping to edges to give some definition to the edges. If I edge highlight instead, I'll likely skip the chipping.
 
I have no real idea what to do. Any suggestions?
 
No progress has been made on the Harlequins yet. I simply haven't decided on a paint scheme yet. Do I do a preexisting Masque from the codex, or something of my own design? I feel like the diamond patterns on the GW studio models really make Harlies stand out, but I'm also really interested in trying a gradient fade using progressive glazes. Maybe I should do a halved or quartered scheme that uses both?
 
I'm adding a single Rhino to my Raven Guard, and have the thing mostly assembled. I need to add magnets in the side doors in case I ever want to use it as a Predator. I don't have a top turret, but I have scads of sponsons kicking around. I'm also trying to fiddle some magnets into the bottom to hold an IG dozer blade. The IG dozers look downright mean on a Rhino chassis, but they're tough to fit in place without extending the profile of the Rhino by a couple inches. I don't like extending the profile that much because it causes issues with model placement, measuring, and movement. Anyone ever gotten one of these dozers onto a Rhino while keeping the blade relatively tight to the front of the hull?
I'll try to get some pics of the dilemma for my next post.
 

1.03.2017

Let the 2017 Projects Begin!

Now that the holidays are over, I'm back to my regular winter day schedule. That means I'll get my half hour of hobby time in each weekday morning. The long holiday break prevented me from getting very much done, as it's hard to hobby with a kid running around with new XMas toys.

The first thing I've done is assemble and begin basing for some of my Blood Bowl Orc models. I selected three random models from the box: a thrower and a couple linemen or blockers. I glued them into their slotted bases, and started playing with basing. Here's the first shot of them:
blood bowl orcs
You can just see the small amount of texture I applied to the bases. It's the clearish, goopy stuff. Here's a close up: 
blood bowl orcs
It's a product called "resin sand" that is made by various art supply companies. I used Liquitex brand, as that's what I had. From what I understand, painters and artists add this stuff to their paints to infuse texture into paintings and projects. I used it a long time ago when making rusty terrain for a Mars board at the FLGS. It dries quite hard and is pretty durable. 
resin sand for basing
After the resin sand was applied, I glued down some basic craft sand on the bases. The result is unimpressive so far, as can be seen below, but I think once it's painted and I've glued on some static grass, it'll look better. 
blood bowl orcs
 
Since I had the basing materials out, I decided to jump in and start working on bases for my Harlequins as well. These guys are a little weird with the integrated wraithbone chunks, and I wasn't sure exactly which direction I wanted to go in. I decided to use straight glue on the bases, sprinkle some medium and large pebbles on, and then coat the remainder in fine sand. These are the same materials I'm using for my Raven Guard, but applied over the whole base instead of just small spots as on the Marines.

These models will be primed white, and the bases will end up a light tan for a desert feel. Once they're painted, I'll be adding some dead grass and scrubby vegetation to them.
 
On the Marine front, I finished my Deathstorm Drop Pod, but am working on taking pictures. My photo area is only so large, and I'm tinkering with ways to take pics of such a tall model.
 
I wasn't sure what the next Marine unit I wanted to paint was, so I took a few spare hours the other day and did a full inventory of all my kits and bits. I came to a surprising realization. Between my bits bins and a huge Rubbermaid tote of sprues and kits, I can only build the following:
  • 10 Terminators
  • 8 Scout Bikes (half of which are old, metal models)
  • 1 Rhino (with an optional Whirlwind turret or a range of Razorback turrets)
  • 1 Land Raider (with weapons for all three variants)
  • 6 Servitors
  • 1 Third Edition Techmarine
  • and SIX power armored models of any type.
I was really shocked by the fact I can only build a half-dozen PA models. I have a significant number of PA sprues and bits, but the thing holding me back are torso backs. I have completely run out, outside of the six I have, and even those are preassembled to fronts from an auction lot I got years ago. I had plans for a lot of PA models for a Demi Company in the near future, but now I need to go bits shopping!
 
In fact, I can build a bunch more models with a minimum of bits purchasing. Five Terminator torso fronts can net me five more full Terminators, while a single Rhino rear door would get me another full Rhino chassis. Three basic bike chassis (without riders) would add another three Scout Bikes to my options. But the big one is torsos. I can build another 19 models just by buying torso backs (though no one sells just backs). Oh, and I can build three full Landspeeders if I get some more of the magnetized flying stands I use from Back to Base-ix.
 
I've got a few things listed on eBay right now in order to raise some funds for said bits, but in the meantime I'm starting assembly of a Rhino. I think my lone Sternguard Squad or my small tactical Squad would benefit from a transport or two.
 
I've got a lot of irons in the fire now with Blood Bowl, Harlies, and Raven Guard. We've got a Blood Bowl league starting up soon that I'm going to really have to work to participate in, and the FLGS monthly 40K tourney coming up in a couple weeks. Lots to do!


12.14.2016

Bomb Pod!

I've been taking my time painting now that the Standish  Standoff is over. I've not really been working on improving or anything, just slowly picking away at models for fun. Right now, I'm applying paint to a Forgeworld Deathstorm Drop Pod.

I originally bought this model for my Ultramarines, but never got around to painting it despite having magnetized and assembled it into subgroups. As of this morning, it looks like this:

deathstorm drop pod

It's a pretty simple model. You replace the complicated harnesses with the missiles racks, which is a HUGE chunk of solid resin once assembled. Unfortunately, shortly after snapping this pic, I snapped off one of the little power feed cables you can see down near the base of the doors. I've broken it twice before, once while removing the sprue gates and once while painting. I couldn't find the piece on the carpet, but I don't think anyone will ever notice. If I do stumble across it later, it should be easy enough to slot into place and glue.

The next steps are the hazard stripes on the doors, and then the main black color. I plan to have it done for the monthly tourney at the FLGS on Saturday. It'll be a 2000 point day, so I'm just running my Standoff list (1750), plus this thing and a few other models. In game terms, the pod is impressive. When it lands, it hits every unit within 12" with d3 Whirlwind shots, each. After that, it functions like a regular Whirlwind, one shot per turn. Slap this bugger down in the middle of a gunline and BOOM.

Last Saturday I managed to get in my first ever game of Blood Bowl. I played Orcs against Humans and had a lot of fun. I'm planning to get the Orc models cleaned of mold lines, assembled, based, and primed soon. Painting will wait until after Christmas, as my wife wanted some small things to get me as gifts, and the pink paints I needed were a perfect option. I've already got various greens for their skin, but have never owned pink paint.

The Blood Bowl Orcs shouldn't take too long to paint, and after they're done I have more Raven Guard or some Harlequins to paint. Not sure which I'll go for. I'm struggling with basing ideas for the Harlies, so I'll have to take some shots and see if you folks can help me decide.