1.10.2017

Blood Bowl Orcs, Progress Report One

There's been some good progress made on my first three Blood Bowl Orcs. I painted the skin with Reaper colors, with a wash of old GW Thrakka Green in the process. I'm not sure if I like the result or not. It's hard to tell until the model is complete. The nice thing with Orcs is that I can have different green recipes for different models and it won't be a problem.

After the skin, I applied Screamer Pink to the armor plates:
blood bowl orc thrower

blood bowl orc blocker

blood bowl orc lineman
 
Then I covered the armor with Pink Horror. At first I tried leaving some Screamer Pink showing in the recesses like I used to do with my Ultramarines, but it looked like crap on such uneven plates. So, I covered over the whole basecoat and will have to go back and use a shading wash.
blood bowl orc lineman

blood bowl orc thrower

blood bowl orc blocker
 
I am not sure what would be a good wash for pink. My first thought was a red, but right now I only own purple (old GW Leviathan Purple). I think I'll thin that out with some medium and see how it pans out. After that, I'll touch up with Pink Horror. Then I have to decide if I should edge highlight or drybrush the final layer of Emperor's Children. The Warhammer TV method is to drybrush the final color, though they used red and not pink. I've never really drybrushed armor before, and am not sure if I'll like it. I think if I drybrush, I'll want to add some sponged armor chipping to edges to give some definition to the edges. If I edge highlight instead, I'll likely skip the chipping.
 
I have no real idea what to do. Any suggestions?
 
No progress has been made on the Harlequins yet. I simply haven't decided on a paint scheme yet. Do I do a preexisting Masque from the codex, or something of my own design? I feel like the diamond patterns on the GW studio models really make Harlies stand out, but I'm also really interested in trying a gradient fade using progressive glazes. Maybe I should do a halved or quartered scheme that uses both?
 
I'm adding a single Rhino to my Raven Guard, and have the thing mostly assembled. I need to add magnets in the side doors in case I ever want to use it as a Predator. I don't have a top turret, but I have scads of sponsons kicking around. I'm also trying to fiddle some magnets into the bottom to hold an IG dozer blade. The IG dozers look downright mean on a Rhino chassis, but they're tough to fit in place without extending the profile of the Rhino by a couple inches. I don't like extending the profile that much because it causes issues with model placement, measuring, and movement. Anyone ever gotten one of these dozers onto a Rhino while keeping the blade relatively tight to the front of the hull?
I'll try to get some pics of the dilemma for my next post.
 

5 comments:

  1. For shading the pink, the purple could work. Another option, if that doesn't pan out, is Carroburg Crimson - assuming they still make it. It's a red-purple wash, which would be perfect for that pink I think.

    I wouldn't use red though for shading the pink. It will end up looking like red armor with pink highlights. You want to keep that pinkness without washing it out.

    I do not like dry brushing flat surfaces. It's not where the technique excels. It's never really even on flat surfaces, and it gives it a textured look.

    Oh, and the skin. I personally like to give a brown wash too. The green wash on its own doesn't give enough depth in my opinion. The green will get you the mid-tone for the shade, and then use brown for added depth.

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    1. I believe they still make that Crimson wash, or something very similar. If the thinned purple doesn't work out I'll give it a try.

      I wasn't keen on dry brushing, but Warhammer TV made it look like it works. I'll try edge highlighting and some small areas of sponge chipping.

      I see what you mean on the brown for depth. I've got Devlan Mud I can use in the facial creases and darker areas.

      Thanks for the ideas and feedback.

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    2. I'll have to check out that video. Maybe it does work well on these guys, I just historically have bad luck on flat surfaces.

      Sponge chipping is good. Plus, if you go the dry brush route, you can use it to hide any mess ups with it.

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  2. I love the more pink armor on them, it contrasts well with the skin and adds yet another level of irony to the team :-)
    I agree with Thor that the purple should look great if you only add it to the recesses and the brown wash will help the skin.
    For the dry brushing, you can use it as a quick edge highlight by using a smaller brush and only hitting the edges. It won't be as neat as true edge highlighting but is quicker. By avoiding the center of the flat areas you don't get the texture Thor mentioned

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    Replies
    1. I wasn't sold on the pink, but the more I look at it, the more it grows on me.
      The irony is the whole reason I chose pink. What's more hilarious than stomping your opponent flat? Doing so in pink armor, of course!

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